Adaptations that improve the ability to attach to the wall

By Anonymous -

The work on the maximum grip strength produces improvements in grip strength but not in reverse except in the early stages (subjects with less experience or returns to activity after long periods), which justifies a progressive beginning in this direction respecting characters of effort to achieve improvements but at the same time minimize risks.

During the first years (from 2 to 5 years, according to the degree of practice) it is neither necessary nor convenient to train the gripping force specifically in any of the above mentioned manifestations (isometric, concentric ...), since special work will fulfill their task in this direction, while allowing a "progressive" strengthening of soft tissues. Therefore, this improvement in relative strength should be sought through intervention on the "other" component: body weight (as long as it is possible to act on it), with a progressive tendency towards the most adequate for (obviously always in the range of healthy), which will also have a prophylactic effect, as it will cause less stress to the soft tissues for the same training. In this sense, controlling the intensity in these jobs (special and real situation) will be the key, along with a constant body "self-listening" to regulate the process.
An element that should not be forgotten and that can be worked from the beginning, is the reinforcement and strengthening of the synergistic and antagonistic muscles that work in parallel to the main ones involved in the production of the force that allows the support of the prey common superficial and superficial of the fingers) and that allows to enhance and stabilize the grip, respectively. Cubitals, radials, palmaris, interosseous, lumbricals, flexors and abductor and adductor of the thumb, as well as the extensors of the fingers are groups that should not be neglected, by working with general means (dumbbells, bars, rubbers ...) to obtain a harmonic development of the whole muscular package that intervenes in the action that is most repeated when climbing.
The arching grip is the one that generates more force in small dams due to a biomechanical factor (friction between the tendons and the pulleys), which implies a high stress (and risk of injury) for the soft structures involved, whose adaptation is slower than that of muscle tissue; Training should be carried out with more caution than other strength work on the other grip positions, not recommending the specific improvement work to a very advanced stage of training and performance, mainly (high levels and very high).

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