Historical evolution of surfing

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Caballito of Totora

The first time surfing was mentioned in History was in the 16th century, by Fray José de Acosta. He was a Spanish anthropologist who made important scientific observations in the field of anthropology and natural sciences. José de Acosta wrote in his Natural and Moral History of the Indies (published in Seville in 1590) that the Indians of Peru were "objects of recreation, as there were plenty of them, and they were knights riding their balsillas and cutting the waves of the brave sea” .


The Totora is an aquatic plant that grows in South America. The caballito of Totora is a type of boat made with the leaves and stems of this reed. It is designed to transport a sailor with his gear, and it is used during the marine fishing operations in Peru and in the lacustrine of Bolivia. In addition, in some beaches of the Peruvian coast, like Huanchaco, these boats are also used to wave riding, as it is done with surf.  


Hawaii

1767 is the year when surf is born;  people started the art of wave riding. It was observed by Captain Cook's crew. Capitan Cook was murdered by the Indians and the new captain, James King, wrote in his logbook: "One of his greatest entertainments was performed in the sea, when the level of the sea is higher and the waves break on the coast. The men go offshore jumping the waves: they lie down in a board of the dimensions of a person and they use their hands as oars. They wait to the biggest waves to come, and then they row with their arms in order to stay in the higher point of the wave”. 

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